Generator Safety — Non-Negotiable Rules
Never run a generator indoors — including garages, basements, and crawlspaces
Carbon monoxide from a generator is odorless, colorless, and lethal. It can reach fatal concentrations indoors within minutes — even with windows and doors open. This applies to attached garages even with the garage door open. The generator must be at least 20 feet away from any door, window, or vent where exhaust could enter the home. Direct the exhaust away from the house.
Install CO detectors before you need them — especially near sleeping areas
CO detectors save lives in generator emergencies. You must have one on every floor, and one within 10 feet of every sleeping area. If your CO detector sounds during generator operation: turn off the generator immediately, get everyone outside, call 911, do not re-enter until emergency services clear the building.
Never connect a generator directly to your home's wiring without a transfer switch
Plugging a generator directly into your panel without a proper transfer switch creates a condition called "backfeed" — your generator can energize the utility lines outside your home, creating electrocution risk for utility workers restoring power. Have a licensed electrician install a transfer switch if you want to power your home's circuits. Otherwise, use heavy-duty outdoor-rated extension cords to connect appliances directly.
The 72-Hour Preparation Checklist
FEMA's standard is 72 hours of self-sufficiency. These are the categories that matter most, with actual quantities:
Water: 1 gallon per person per day, minimum 3-day supply
For a family of four: 12 gallons minimum for 3 days. Store commercially sealed water (3–5 year shelf life) or refillable containers filled from the tap (refresh every 6 months). Include water for pets. If you have a week or more of warning (like a named storm approaching), fill your bathtub using a WaterBOB insert — they hold 100 gallons and take 20 minutes to fill.
Food: non-perishable, no cooking required
Focus on foods you already eat: canned goods with pull tabs, nut butters, crackers, granola bars, dried fruit. Include a manual can opener. You don't need a propane camp stove (though it helps) if your stockpile doesn't require cooking. Account for dietary restrictions and infant formula or baby food if relevant. Rotate stock annually by eating what you have and replacing it.
Medications: minimum 7-day supply beyond what you currently have
Request early refills before predicted emergencies. Many insurance companies waive the early refill restriction before declared disasters — call and ask. Know which of your medications require refrigeration (insulin, some antibiotics, certain injectables) and have a plan: a quality cooler with ice can maintain medications for 24–48 hours; if you know power will be out longer, contact your pharmacy or doctor for guidance on temperature excursions for your specific medication.
Lighting and communication
Flashlights: LED flashlights with extra batteries, one per room. Headlamps are useful for hands-free work.
Battery or hand-crank NOAA weather radio: This is your connection to official emergency information when your phone's battery or cell network fails. NOAA Weather Radio broadcasts continuous weather and emergency alerts on dedicated frequencies. A $25–35 device at any hardware store.
Portable power bank: A 20,000–30,000 mAh bank keeps phones and medical devices charged for days. Charge it regularly — a discharged power bank is useless.
Heat and cold management
Summer outages: Move to the lowest level of your home (cooler), close blinds and drapes, avoid cooking with the stove. Know your nearest public cooling center (typically libraries, community centers). Wet clothing around neck/wrists for evaporative cooling. Heat-related illness is a serious risk, especially for elderly and young children.
Winter outages: Layer clothing, use sleeping bags rated for low temperatures, close off unused rooms and gather in one room. Know your nearest warming shelter. Do not use gas stoves or ovens for heat — CO hazard.
Food Safety During a Power Outage
Refrigerator: safe for 4 hours
An unopened refrigerator stays at a safe temperature (below 40°F) for approximately 4 hours. Keep it closed. After 4 hours without power, discard perishable items: meat, poultry, fish, dairy, eggs, cut fruits and vegetables.
Full freezer: safe for 48 hours
A full freezer maintains safe temperature for 48 hours when the door stays closed; a half-full freezer for about 24 hours. Food with ice crystals remaining can be refrozen. When in doubt, throw it out — foodborne illness from spoiled food is a real risk in outage situations.
Use a thermometer
A refrigerator/freezer thermometer ($8–15) tells you the actual temperature of your food when the power comes back. Below 40°F in the refrigerator = safe. Above 40°F for more than 2 hours = discard. Don't guess.
Safe outdoor cooking
Gas grills and camp stoves work only outdoors — never in garages or enclosed spaces (CO risk). Have enough fuel for 3+ days. A cast iron skillet or camp grill works on any heat source.
Medical Equipment: Register as a Medical Necessity Customer
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a typical power outage last?
Most residential outages are resolved within 4–8 hours. Weather-related outages following significant storms (hurricanes, ice storms, major wind events) can last days to weeks in severely affected areas. The 72-hour standard reflects the realistic worst-case for most Americans — though in areas prone to severe weather, a week of supplies is more prudent. If you're in a hurricane-prone area, FEMA recommends 2 weeks.
My sump pump runs on electricity and my basement floods without it. What can I do?
A battery backup sump pump ($150–400) automatically takes over when utility power fails and your primary pump stops. Most install alongside your existing pump and run off a sealed lead-acid battery. For extended outages, a water-powered backup (uses municipal water pressure instead of electricity) can run indefinitely as long as water pressure is maintained. Both options are widely available at home improvement stores.
Should I drain my water heater to get water during an outage?
A standard 40–50 gallon water heater is a reserve of potable water you can use during an emergency. Turn off the power/gas to the unit first. Connect a hose to the drain valve at the bottom. Open a hot water faucet elsewhere in the house (to break the vacuum) and open the drain valve. The water is safe to drink. This is a legitimate emergency water source that most preparedness guides overlook.